Go Fish!! (April 6, 2013)

fish Vegetarians, take a back seat, as this is an ultimate ride into the world of Kerala fish curries. The ones that make tourists come back for more. This indeed is an expedition unveiling myriad fish curries and their specialties across the state. Whether it is seer (nemmeen) or anchovy (netholi), each fish plays a principal role in deciding a culinary expert’s mind about the way it should be cooked.  Likewise, each district in Kerala has its own signature style in cooking fish curry.  

What makes Kuttanadu unique, other than its enchanting lakes and delightful houseboat rides? Have no doubts but it is the scrumptious sea-food delicacies it offers in diverse flavours. From karimeen (pearl spot) pollichathu to nadan njandu (crab) curry, Kuttanadu has answer to every epicurean query that could satisfy the death wishes of a connoisseur while tickling his taste buds.

Shebuloon Jacob, Chief Chef of Dubai hotel, Kumarakom, says, Kuttanadan fish curry is scrumptious mainly because it is cooked with fresh water fish instead of sea fish. Pearl spots, barramundis and many other freshly caught fishes are used for kuttanadan curry. Unlike other fish delicacies around Kerala, mustard and gram flour are used in this curry.

For Saleena, who hails from Thalassery, her ‘porichanam’ (fried fish) curry is mostly made with fleshy fishes such as neymeen (seer fish) or ayala (mackerel).  The fish marinated in chilly, turmeric and salt has to be fried before making this curry. Keep grinded coconut, fennel seeds (perumjeerakam), chilly powder, turmeric and coriander powder (a bit more than chilly powder) aside, while onions, tomatoes and chillies are fried in oil until the onions turn golden brown. Pour some water and the grinded masalas into the frying pan with the onions and tomatoes. When they are heated, add the fried fish in it. Once the coconut is cooked you can take it from the burner.

F.curry1Kudampuli (gambooge) is an inimitable ingredient in many fish curries around Kerala. Whether it is Ernakulam, Kottayam or Kollam, kudampuli is one common element that is being used in fish curries all over Kerala. 

Daisy Antony from Ernakulam says, she uses Kashmiri chilly powder for her fish curries as it brings a tantalizing colour to the curry without adding much flavour. Ernakulam and Thrissur fish curries are made in coconut milk rather than grinded coconut, though in Thrissur they use mango, kudampuli or a bit of tamarind in their curries.

Zain’s restaurant in Kozhikode is one of the most celebrated sea-food joints in Kerala. The delectable Malabar dishes in here are unrivaled, as they are made under the supervision of one and only one Zainuthatha. We are lucky to include Zainuthatha’s famous Fish Stew recipe in our story. Fish stew – Take 250 gram cleaned seer fish (neymeen)or pomfret (aavoli). Marinate it in chilly powder, turmeric powder, and salt. It has to be fried in coconut oil before cooking.  Three extracts of milk of different concentrations has to be strained from a coconut. Heat a pinch of fenugreek, 8 green chillies, 1 sliced onion, ginger, coriander leaves, and curry leaves in pure coconut oil and pour the thinnest coconut milk in it. Put some coriander powder and a pinch of grinded cumin (jeerakam) in the mix. When the mix is boiled, add fried fish. Add thinly sliced tomatoes to the mix and salt for taste. Now it is time to pour the second concentrated milk. Once it is boiled add the thickest milk to the mix and take it away from the burner before it is boiled. Zainuthatha guarantees this curry will be the best fish delicacy you have ever had in your life.

Fish Curry (4)Though, Thiruvananthapuram fish curries are not famous in North, its taste and flavours are much different from any other district. “We use drumsticks and some times bitter mangoes in our fish curries and our curries are brown rather than red,” says Jayashree K S from Thiruvananthapuram.

Mariamma Kurien from Kollam, says their ‘mulakitta meen curry’ will last a week as they do not use coconut in their dish. It is the same case with fish curries in Kottayam named ‘Meen pattichathu’.

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